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Hair Glossary
Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis juice) Expressed from the aloe vera plant which are found mainly in sunny climates and is one of the oldest medicinal plants known. Widely revered and used by the ancient Egyptians and Native Americans, it has remarkable healing abilities because it is a natural oxygenator (drawing and holding oxygen to the skin). For this same reason, it is one of the most effective cellular renewal ingredients available for use in cosmetics. The leaves store large amounts of water. Aloe vera improves hydration is soothing and healing to all skin types. Chemical analysis has shown the presence of mucopolysacharides, a natural moisturizing factor. Aloe vera is composed of water, the enzymes catalase and cellulose, minerals, calcium, aluminum, iron, zinc, magnesium, sodium, 20 amino acids and carbohydrates. Aloe vera also contains the "youth mineral" potassium. Has renowned healing properties, anti-inflammatory and can soothe the skin and help heal cuts, grazes, burns and insect bites. In 1500 BC the Egyptian Emperor Papyrus recommended aloe for skin care. The Greeks, Chinese, Roman and Arab herbalist recommended aloe for burns and rashes. In the 1930s a radiologist discovered that aloe vera is effective in treating radiation burns. True aloe vera is watery and thin.

Biotin:  Biotin functions as an essential cofactor for four enzymes. They are involved in
the following functions. Biotin is essential for carbohydrate metabolism and in the synthesis of fatty acids. It also helps incorporate amino acids into protein. Healthy hair and nails require biotin. Biotin is absorbed in the small intestine and any excess is excreted in the urine. Normally, the amount of biotin excreted in the urine and feces is up to six times greater than the amount eaten in food due to the large quantities produced by gut bacteria. Biotin supplements may help to improve blood glucose control in diabetics by enhancing insulin sensitivity and increasing the activity of enzymes involved in glucose metabolism. Biotin in high doses may also be useful in the treatment of diabetic neuropathy. Biotin can be used to treat frail, splitting or thin fingernails and to improve hair condition in cases where there is a deficiency. Biotin may improve hair health through its action on the metabolism of scalp oils.   I personally use Biotin and I have noticed and increase in the thickness of my hair which is something that was very important to me.  I've always had some what thin hair and I hated it.  Now I have thick beautiful hair and I love it!

Build -up : occurs after using an excessive amount of hair products such as conditioners and styling aids on your hair which leaves a film.  This can cause your hair to be dull and lifeless and prevent moisture (which our hair needs so desperately) from being able to penetrate the hair shaft.  I have also noticed that after using moisturizers and oils for a week that the extra product can lead to breakage.  Do a clarifying treatment to remove the build up (see recipes for clarifying treatments that you can mix up at home that work just as well if not better than the store bought products which can be harsh on our hair). In addition, that's why washing your hair on a weekly basis is so important in the process of achieving long healthy hair.

Blow out :   A style where you blow dry your hair and leave as is or in many cases people will blow out their hair after a roller set to release some of the curl and giving them a nice bouncy style.

Breakage:   Breakage occurs when a weak point in the hair detaches it self and breaks off.  You normally see this in the form of little hairs all over your clothing or in the sink after combing your hair.  Serval factors can contribute to breakage such as chemicals that dry and damage the hair.  Clothing that hair can get stuck on or continuously rubs against causing the hair to pull and break.  Left untreated breakage can lead to split ends and is the main reason why women of color are unable to obtain and keep any length in their hair.  Breakage is different from shedding which is a normal part of the life cycle in the hair strand.

BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier is an excellent cationic self-emulsifier and conditioner for both hair and skin care. It is naturally derived from Colza oil and is noted for its exceptional mildness. BTMS Conditioning Emulsifier offers innovative properties to formulations by giving body and thickness to emulsion systems. In addition, it provides conditioning and emolliency to skin and hair. Because it is substantive to hair, it imparts excellent body, spring, improving wet comb. In skin creams, lotions it creates soft, powdery after-feel. BTMS can be used as sole emulsification system in creams, lotions or hair conditioners.

Citric Acid - Widely used in the cosmetic industry. Derived from citrus fruits by fermentation of crude sugars. Used as a preservative and to adjust acid-alkali balance. Citric acid is said to have antioxidant and toning properties. Citric acid is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids. AHA's are used not only to reduce wrinkles but also to brighten your skin. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid (citrus), glycolic (sugar cane), malic (apples), and tartaric (grapes) acids.

Clarifying treatment :  is done to breakdown any build up on the hair.  You can usually tell that your hair needs to be clarified when your hair looks limp and dull and wont hold any curls.  I sometimes clarify after every wash with ACV rinse which is very gently on the hair.  I also use a mixture of rosemary or tea tree oil and olive oil and go through my scalp with a cotton ball to remove any build up before I wash.  It's also good for dandruff or flaky scalp.

Conditioner wash :   also considered a "No - Poo" is where you use conditioner instead of shampoo to wash your hair.  The premise behind this is that shampoos can be harsh on the hair and they can strip all of the natural oils that are really needed for our hair.  However, in my experience I didn't like conditioner washes because my hair just didn't seem clean after using moisturizers and oils almost on a daily basis.  I wanted to make sure my hair and scalp were clean  to avoid as much build up on the hair and scalp which can also lead to breakage.

Cortex: is the most important layer of the hair shaft.  It is made up of protein chains.  This is the part of the hair that must be penetrated for conditioning to have any affect.  That's why deep conditioning is so important.  When heat is applied it swells the hair shaft opening up the cuticle allowing the conditioning proteins to penetrate and attach it's self to the cortex.

Cuticle: the outer most layer of the hair shaft is referred to as the cuticle.  It is shingle like layer much like the shingles on the roof of a house.  women of color average 10 to 12 layers deep.  The condition layer determines the hairs ability to absorb moisture.  It is the job of the cuticle is to protect the inner part of the hair shaft (cortex) from damage.

Deep Conditioner :    Is a nourishing product that feeds the hair with moisture, oils and proteins to strengthen damaged, dull hair.  In order for a deep conditioner to work properly a plastic cap should be placed over the hair and heat applied for 20 the 30 mins.  The heat allows the hair shaft to swell there by allowing the proteins, oils and moisture to penetrate and attached it self to the damage hair strands. I recommend my S2S deep conditioner on a regular basis which heads off any impending damage that occurs on a daily and weekly basis from heat and styling tools.

Emulsifier   - joins oil and water together making a creamy consistency that you see in conditioners,lotions and creams.

Essential Oils:

Essential Oils are known for their therapeutic and medicinal properties. They are used commonly as pure and natural therapeutic treatments offering an effective natural alternative to everyday medications and beauty products commonly found in stores. These oils contain natural plant materials from which they are derived offering a soothing remedy for many common human ailments. These natural oils are volatile and are obtained by a steam distillation process. 100% pure natural essential oils are known to be most effective. However, you must be very knowledgeable about the use of these oils and their combinations in order to begin using them. Note: You should not apply the undiluted essential oil on your body as these are very concentrated and you may experience discomfort. These oils should also never be taken internally.

Tea Tree oil - is a potent antiseptic and is great for acne, oily skin, dandruff and fungus, stimulates growth by Simulating blood circulation and lymphatic circulation.

Peppermint - Active ingredient is menthol that has a cooling & refreshing effect.  Used for itching, inflammations, swelling, pain and scalp stimulant.

Rosemary - has antimicrobial properties and very effective in the treatment of acne, eczema & dandruff .  Rosemary stimulates the hair follicles, adds sheen to the hair and has said to be able to restore grey hair to it's natural color

Sage -   has been know for years to alleviate dandruff and a defense against falling hair, kills bacteria and stimulates growth by Simulating blood circulation and lymphatic circulation.

Guar Silk
A cationic derivative of a natural gum that is highly substantive to both hair and skin. GuarSilk™ is THE key ingredient in conditioning shampoos to leave hair soft, shiny and silky.

Line of Demarcation :  is the point where the new growth (unrelaxed hair) and relaxed hair meets.  In many cases if you don't touch up your relaxer on a regular basis you could be in for big trouble because the line of demarcation is a weak point and in many cases the hair can break at this point if left to it self without relaxing.  This is where most people get into the relaxing revolving door and relax their hair every six weeks which in it self can also be harmful because of possible threat of overlapping (we will discuss under the relaxer definition)

MSM ( Methylsulfonylmethane): Quite simply MSM is a food that comes from the ocean, is water soluble, and is not a drug, or a food additive. MSM is the 3rd largest ingredient found in the human body.   MSM is a natural form of organic sulfonyl sulfur compound that is found in the fluid of all living organisms. It is present in a variety of foods, including most fresh raw fruits and green vegetables, milk, meat, seafood, and some grains. It is also found in many common beverages such as milk, coffee and tea.  It is, in essence, a pure white, odorless, essentially tasteless, water-soluble crystalline solid sulfur powder.  Why does MSM help with the development of longer and stronger hair?  Various scientific studies have proven that MSM contributes a definite normalizing effect on body functions.   The sulfur normally provided to the body by MSM is required for healthy collagen and keratin which are essential for healthy hair, skin and nails.  MSM also has proven antioxidant benefits which can disrupt or alter damaging chain reactions of lipid peroxidation in the cell membranes. MSM is considered to be one of the safest substances in biology, similar in toxicity to water. MSM and its related compounds are the source of 85 percent of the sulfur found in all living organisms. Many researchers believe that sulfur, is a sorely neglected mineral nutrient and plays an indispensable role in human nutrition. MSM is volatile and is easily lost during even moderate processing. Cooking, drying, smoking, pickling, and long-term storage can deplete the MSM content of food.   Unless the human diet is composed primarily of raw foods, it is unlikely that sufficient MSM will be ingested to significantly contribute to the nutritional sulfur requirement. The only side effects of taking MSM alone, or with other supplements , are stronger nails, softer skin and faster growing hair .  This is because with MSM you have access to more sulfur.The sulfur normally provided to the body by MSM is required for healthy collagen and keratin which are essential for healthy hair, skin and nails. Healthy hair is stronger hair and hair that can achieve its natural genetic growth patterns. I took MSM for months when I initially started on my hair journey and noticed a couple of great benefits such as it made my hair softer, shiny and my hair texture changed some what.  I heard that this could happen before I took it but was amazed that it gave me waves and corkscrew curls in the nape area of my head that I never had before.  I stopped taking it because the added wave and corkscrew curls made my hair very hard to manage and more difficult to relax.  However, I do plan on using MSM again because of the many benefits it offers to the hair as well as the entire body.

NatraMuse - Natural Source self-emulsifier for oil in water emulsions. This system is based on vegetable derived lactylates, which are conditioning to both hair and skin. The anionic lactylates are produced by a reaction between the acyl group of fatty acids and lactic acid. Lactic acid and fatty acids are natural moisturizing factor (NMF) constituents that are found in the skin. The lactylates are excellent viscosity enhancers, stabilizers, and conditioners. NatraMulse™ is a complete, balanced and highly desirable emulsification system.

Polyquaternium 7  is an excellent cationic conditioner for hair and skin. It is especially useful in surfactant based systems such as shampoo and shower gel and is perfect for use in spray on, leave in hair conditioners. Polyquaternium 7 is a very good detangler and provides slip for easier wet-combing. In addition it will add softness and shine to dry hair.


Carrier or base oils:

Castor oil (Ricinus communis) Castor oil is extracted from the sees of the castor plant. Commonly used commercially in 50% of lipsticks in the United States. Creates a protective barrier on the skin and is soothing. Castor oil is part alcohol and part oil. It is mainly composed of ricinoleic acid (87%), a fatty acid with an unusual molecular structure. Also known as Palm Christi Oil. Castor has also been know to have anti fungal properties

Mineral oil - Also known as white oil. This is commonly used in baby lotions and creams  and in most of your black hair care products, as well as in other cosmetic agents. It is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic. This is a petroleum by-product, which can clog your pores.  Mineral oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons, and not particularly beneficial for any skin or hair type, and yet, because it is cheap and stable from spoilage, is widely used in many skin care products. I do not and will not use mineral oil!  (Watch out for products containing mineral oil).

Neem Oil
Neem Oil has been used medicinally and cosmetically for hundreds of years. Its long term use has made it one of the oldest medicines available today. Used to treat a myriad of diseases and illnesses, Neem Oil is truly a product that has withstood the test of time.  It has a very strong odor, dark color, and thick viscosity.

History
Neem has been used in India since 2000-4000 BC, and was referred to in ancient Indian texts as "the curer of all ailments". All parts of the Neem tree were used - the leaves, twigs, and oil from the nuts. Neem trees are cherished in India, where they are considered good luck. Since India’s Neem trees were used so extensively, Neem trees were affectionately referred to as "the village pharmacy". Even today, Neem is a key herb used in Ayurvedic and Unani medicine.

Medicinal and Cosmetic Use
Neem is antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, antiseptic, and antiparasitic. Because of these properties, it is widely deployed in many different toiletries such as soap, toothpaste, hair care products, and skin care products. It is used to treat a wide array of diseases, illnesses, and problems, and is considered a cure-all in India. The oil has moisturizing and regenerative properties, contains Vitamin E, and has essential fatty acids. Scientific research today validates many of the traditional uses of Neem Oil, it is used to treat bacterial, fungal, and viral infections, boost the immune system, and for many specific health problems. It is also used to deter mosquitoes, fleas, flies, ticks, mites, and lice. Among other conditions, Neem Oil has been historically used to treat the following: Malarial fevers, diabetes, urinary problems, acne, eczema, psoriasis, scabies, gingivitis, swollen and bleeding gums, cavity prevention, ringworm, chicken pox, lice, dandruff, burns, wounds, athlete’s foot, sore throat, tiredness, cough, leprosy, hemorrhoids, intestinal worms, boils, ulcers, warts, herpes, arthritis, cancer, sprains, AIDS, cold sores, parasites, bed sores, rashes, gangrene, heart disease, gastritis, stomach problems, high blood pressure, sinusitis, hives, snake bites, hypertension, hair loss, heart burn, cholesterol, hangover, shingles, chronic fatigue, headaches, poor circulation, influenza, colds, insomnia, tuberculosis, immune system, indigestion, conjunctivitis, inflammation, urinary stones, candida, kidney problems, wrinkles, eye disorders, yeast infections, earache, hot spots, and nausea.

 lanolin is used as a cream to soothe skin. It is pure, hypoallergenic and bacteriostatic. In this form it is used by some breastfeeding mothers on sore and cracked nipples. This grade of lanolin can also be used to treat chapped lips, diaper rash, dry skin, itchy skin, rough feet, minor cuts, minor burns and skin abrasions. Many varieties of shaving cream contain lanolin. As an ointment base, it is readily absorbed through skin, facilitating absorption of the medicinal chemicals it carries. Some folk medicine traditions use lanolin in the nose, in small amounts, to treat head colds.

Sweet Almond Oil - (Prunus amygdales) Sweet almond oil is pressed from almond kernels. The almond tree is cultivated in Southern Europe, the Mediterranean countries and California. It consists mainly of oleic acid (69%), essential unsaturated fatty acids (25%), sterolins (.5 to 1%) and vitamin E (about 10 IU per ounce. A light nearly odorless oil. Sweet almond oil is said to have great nutritional value for all skin types. Has a similar make up to baby’s sebum, the oil naturally produced by the skin to protect it and is easily absorbed. Contain glucosides, minerals, and vitamins and is rich in protein. Sweet almond oil has very little natural smell and can be used as a perfume base. It was highly valued by the Egyptians for cosmetic purposes.

Soybean (Soya max) The ancient Orient cultivated soybeans for its protein, oil and lecithin content. Currently soybean oil is one of the most important oils produced in the United States. It is pressed from the soybean. Most of the lecithin (phospholipids) used in cosmetics are derived from soybeans. Soybean oil has a very high-unsaturated fatty acid compound, 2% sterolins and 30 IU per ounce of vitamin E. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age spots. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.

Shedding:  shedding unlike breakage is  normal and is broken down into three phases.  Normal shedding can be any where from 50 to 100 strands a day.  You can always tell shedding from breakage because a shed hair will have a white bulb on the end.

Anagen - (growth phase ) approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at one time, this phase can last any where from 2 to 6 years.

Catagen - (transitional phase) during this phase the hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of the normal length then the lower part is destroyed and the dermal papilla breaks away and begins the rest stage.  This stage can last a couple of weeks.

Telogen - (resting phase) last about 5 - 6 weeks and the hair doesn't grow but stays attached to they follicle.  At the end of this phase the hair follicle re-enters the growth phase and if the hair has not already been shed the new hair pushes out the old hair to begin the new growth cycle

Ultra Nourish Hair Food supplement

Hair, Skin and Nails is a unique combination of several key vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, herbs and other nutrients that will support and maintain the health of an individual’s hair, skin and nails. This formulation will provide the extra nourishment needed to keep hair, skin and nails strong and beautiful. Optimal health of hair, skin and nails starts from the inside, and requires the proper nutrients to insure their beauty and nourishment. The majority of Americans do not get the essential nutrients they need from diet alone, and our soil is depleted of vital vitamins and minerals. In addition, today’s stressful lifestyle can deplete the body of the vitamins, minerals and nutrients it needs to stay in optimal health. This formula will provide the optimal health necessary for strong and beautiful hair, skin and nails. Below is the list of ingredients in the Hair, Skin and Nail Vitamin.

Ingredients:Vitamin A ,Vitamin C, Vitamin E Biotin, Iodine (from Kelp), Selenium, L-Methionine, Borage Oil, Flaxseed Oil, Silica, Collagen Type II (Hyaluronic Acid and Chondroitin Complex), Zinc, MSM, 74 Trace Mineral Blend, Astaxanthin, Proprietary Blend, White Tea Extract , Oat (bran), Milk Thistle (seed), (black pepper extract)

MSM
Why does MSM help with the development of longer and stronger hair?  Various scientific studies have proven that MSM contributes a definite normalizing effect on body functions. 

The sulfur normally provided to the body by MSM is required for healthy collagen and keratin which are essential for healthy hair, skin and nails.  MSM also has proven antioxidant benefits which can disrupt or alter damaging chain reactions of lipid peroxidation in the cell membranes.

The only side effects of taking MSM alone, or with other supplements, are stronger nails, softer skin and faster growing hair.  This is because with MSM you have access to more sulfur.

Selenium

Helps in treatment and prevention of dandruff. Necessary for healthy hair and nails. May also increase the elastic youthfulness of the skin and be helpful in removing age spots. When ingested in the natural algae form of selenomethionine, skin cancer incidence from ultraviolet light may also be reduced.
Selenium (Se) is an essential trace element that functions as a component of enzymes involved in antioxidant protection and thyroid hormone metabolism.

Zinc

Stimulates hair and nail growth. Aids in
preventing hair loss. May help treat and prevent
dandruff.


Biotin
Helps produce healthy-looking hair
and nails.

Biotin is a water-soluble member of the B-complex group of vitamins and is commonly referred to as vitamin H. The biochemical acts as a carrier for carbon dioxide in the pyruvate carboxylase reaction, where biotin is linked to the epsilon-amino group of a lysine residue in the enzyme. Biotin is necessary for both metabolism and growth in humans, particularly with reference to production of fatty acids, antibodies, digestive enzymes, and in niacin (vitamin B-3) metabolism. Food sources for biotin are liver, kidney, soy flour, egg yolk, cereal, and yeast. Biotin deficiency is rare but people can become deficient through long-term use of antibiotics or by regularly eating raw egg whites.  There are suggestions that biotin is also capable of curing baldness, alleviating muscle pain and depression, and functions as a cure for dermatitis, although there is no substantial evidence for any of these claims. Biotin deficiency results in fatigue, depression, nausea, muscle pains, hair loss, and anemia. It's estimated minimum daily requirement is between 30 mcg to 300 mcg.



Vitaman A
Protects the cell membranes and stimulates the growth of new skin cells.

Beta-carotene is the pigment that gives carrots, sweet potatoes, and other yellow vegetables their characteristic coloring. This conjugated polyene also serves as a precursor that can be enzymatically converted into vitamin A in most animals and man. Although vitamin A is not present in any plants, the carotene precursor can be found in carrots, pumpkins, spinach, squash, watermelon, asparagus, broccoli, and cantaloupe. Liver is also a very good source for beta-carotene. Vitamin A (retinol) is an essential component for vision and it promotes bone growth, tooth development, and helps maintain healthy skin, hair, and mucous membranes. Deficiencies of vitamin A result in a number of maladys including night blindness, dry skin, poor bone growth, weak tooth enamel, and weight loss.

What is BORAGE SEED OIL?
The Borage plant yields brilliant blue flowers.  The leaves are used for medicinal teas while the flowers produce seed pods containing oil.  Borage Oil provides the richest source of gamma linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 class of essential fatty acids (EFAs). GLA has an important role in the first step the body plays in converting omega 6 into series one prostaglandin (PG1). PG1’s keep the blood moving smoothly through the body. EFAs, omega 3 and omega 6, are not manufactured by the body and must be acquired from diet of which the typical diet provides very little. Borage Oil also contains other nutritional lipids and active phytocompounds. These constituents are significant immune system and cell builders. *

What are the benefits?

EFAs are necessary for optimal health, maintaining cell structure and producing energy. GLA improves circulation and hormone balance. Research has shown Borage Oil to be beneficial for symptoms of PMS, such as breast tenderness, bloating, fluid retention, moodiness and irritability. It reduces dryness, itchy skin, high cholesterol and blood pressure; it is effective in treating cardiovascular disorders, pain and inflammation of arthritis and joint stiffness, diabetic neuropathy, symptoms of chronic and post viral fatigue syndrome, including dizziness, poor concentration and depression. GLA also inhibits the enzyme 5-alpha reductase which is responsible for converting healthy testosterone into the bad form of testosterone known as dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT is thought to be responsible for benign prostrate hyperplasia (inflammation of the prostate) and male pattern baldness. *

Alleviates symptoms of premenstrual syndrome and BPH*
Beneficial for inflammation-related ailments*
Nourishes skin, hair and nails and promotes proper nerve functioning*
Helps to regulate proper cholesterol levels*
Helps eliminate eczema, psoriasis, dandruff and hair loss*
Strengthens adrenal glands, improves circulation and hormone balance*
Helps to maintain joint flexibility*
Silica
As we get older, the source of silica in our bodies becomes exhausted, resulting in wrinkles, dry skin, dull lifeless hair, and brittle nails and bones. Silica is known for aiding in hairs elasticity ,  allowing it to be more pilable. Maintaining collagen underneath the skin augments elasticity and beauty. Collagen owes that attribute to Silica, which provides a beautiful complexion that is more than skin deep. Silica has been regarded as nature’s building block and is our answer to healthier, younger looking, more radiant skin, hair and nails. It is a universal element in the human body that can be found free and soluble in water or combined with proteins and lipids, and has an exact relationship to mineral absorption. Its most important purpose is of immune nature, because the Silica partakes in the manufacturing process of antibodies/antigens and it encourages the conversion of LB (Lymphocyte B) into LT (Lymphocyte T).

The typical human body holds roughly seven grams of silica, a quantity far exceeding the numbers for other key minerals such as iron. Both iron and silica are body essential, meaning they are necessary for carrying our ongoing metabolic processes that are vital to life. Both elements must be continuously supplied. With Silica, strength and life, which often vanish as the years accumulate, can be naturally sustained or even restored to your skin.

Vitamen E -
Key to hair health, nail growth and supple skin by supplying oxygen to the body and improving circulation. Helps combat danndruff. May aid in preventing hair loss. Vitamin E may also help defend against heart disease. Normal nerve development also depends on Vitamin E, and the vitamin protects the white blood cells that defend the body against disease and may play other roles in normal immunity.  Although vitamin E is stored in the body, overdoses appear to have lower toxic effects than do overdoses of other fat-soluble vitamins. Natural sources of vitamin E are vegetable oils, sunflower seeds, almonds, and peanuts.










 
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